Transitional Gowns....
So my next obsession is with what is called the
"Transitional" gowns. This is what happened
between Houppelandes/Burgundians and the
traditional Tudor Gowns that you think of when
you think of Henry the VIII and his wives. This
time period is fascinating to me in terms of how
the clothing evolved, and also because there are
a lot fewer images to work from. I have started
my gown (pictures coming soon) but here are my
collection of images which mostly range from the
1480's to around 1510 and this is what I am
using to work from. Click on the images to get a
larger view. The under dress is a kirtle which is
more or less a cotehardie that more than likely
laces up the front. The over gowns seem to close
in various ways, but there are a lot of images of
them being fastened up the front (probably
hooks and eyes or maybe hidden lacing), some
lace up the back and there are several examples
of the over dress being a split skirt, but the split
is on the side instead of in the center, and the
dress laces up at the bodice on that same seam
(look at the lady and the unicorn images below).
This is the style I am starting with and then will
probably try one that has the front fastening
next.
As always, e-mail with questions or comments
and THANK YOU to THL Amalia from Ansteorra
for all her help and advice!
So my next obsession is with what is called the
"Transitional" gowns. This is what happened
between Houppelandes/Burgundians and the
traditional Tudor Gowns that you think of when
you think of Henry the VIII and his wives. This
time period is fascinating to me in terms of how
the clothing evolved, and also because there are
a lot fewer images to work from. I have started
my gown (pictures coming soon) but here are my
collection of images which mostly range from the
1480's to around 1510 and this is what I am
using to work from. Click on the images to get a
larger view. The under dress is a kirtle which is
more or less a cotehardie that more than likely
laces up the front. The over gowns seem to close
in various ways, but there are a lot of images of
them being fastened up the front (probably
hooks and eyes or maybe hidden lacing), some
lace up the back and there are several examples
of the over dress being a split skirt, but the split
is on the side instead of in the center, and the
dress laces up at the bodice on that same seam
(look at the lady and the unicorn images below).
This is the style I am starting with and then will
probably try one that has the front fastening
next.
As always, e-mail with questions or comments
and THANK YOU to THL Amalia from Ansteorra
for all her help and advice!
Here is a great image of a
lady lacing up her
kirtle/cotehardie under gown.
lady lacing up her
kirtle/cotehardie under gown.
You can see here that her dress clearly fastens
in the front. She has a wider cuff (starting to
see this more) and the beginnings of the Tudor
head dress we are used to. This is an Austrian
Princess from about 1495. It is still unclear to
me if you are seeing her under-dress or if that
is a partlet, but the trim there on the black
underneath her dress matches her hat.
in the front. She has a wider cuff (starting to
see this more) and the beginnings of the Tudor
head dress we are used to. This is an Austrian
Princess from about 1495. It is still unclear to
me if you are seeing her under-dress or if that
is a partlet, but the trim there on the black
underneath her dress matches her hat.
These are the Unicorn and the Lady Tapestry series
from Flanders done near the end of the 15th cent.
This is the side opening that I mentioned before.
Also, of note on this one, look at her
lady-in-waiting. Her dress buttons up the sleeve,
but also from her waist. Really interesting!
from Flanders done near the end of the 15th cent.
This is the side opening that I mentioned before.
Also, of note on this one, look at her
lady-in-waiting. Her dress buttons up the sleeve,
but also from her waist. Really interesting!
This one is a sideless surcoate
with a cotehardie-like
undergown with the wide
sleeves that get bigger and
bigger over the next decade.
with a cotehardie-like
undergown with the wide
sleeves that get bigger and
bigger over the next decade.
The noble lady again has on a
sideless surcoate, but her lad
in waiting has the turned back
sleeves and you can see her
side opening on her skirt very
clearly here.
sideless surcoate, but her lad
in waiting has the turned back
sleeves and you can see her
side opening on her skirt very
clearly here.
Here you can see the opening on the
side and it looks like it goes right
into an area where the dress could
be laced up.
side and it looks like it goes right
into an area where the dress could
be laced up.
The lady in waiting here, her dress
laces up the front.
laces up the front.
This one is great because you can see
the two kinds of sleeves, the sort
cuffed sleeve on the green dress and
the bell sleeve on the lady in red
behind her.
the two kinds of sleeves, the sort
cuffed sleeve on the green dress and
the bell sleeve on the lady in red
behind her.
Very similar to the green dress above
The bell sleeve here is getting larger,
and you can clearly see that these
dresses fasten up the front.
and you can clearly see that these
dresses fasten up the front.
The sleeves here have gotten larger
still and the skirts fuller.
still and the skirts fuller.
This is Margaret Tudor, sister to
Henry VIII. You can see here the
start of the Tudor style that we
think of , but she is not wearing the
farthingale that will become
standard in the years following.
Henry VIII. You can see here the
start of the Tudor style that we
think of , but she is not wearing the
farthingale that will become
standard in the years following.
IMAGES OF MY ATTEMPT.....
These are some images of the dress basically pinned together
in some critical places trying to make sure I have the pattern
right.
The under-dress is a gold/white brocade and the over dress is
black velveteen and green shot-silk. (click for larger image)
These are some images of the dress basically pinned together
in some critical places trying to make sure I have the pattern
right.
The under-dress is a gold/white brocade and the over dress is
black velveteen and green shot-silk. (click for larger image)
